2014 Mt. Beautiful Pinot Noir

Year: 2014

Producer: Mt. Beautiful Winery

Region: North Canterbury, New Zealand

Grape(s): Pinot Noir

Alcohol: 14.5%

Price (approximately): $19.99

Pairing: Classic Pinot Noir pairings include salmon, duck and mushrooms. A local Hawaiian twist on these classics include furikake salmon, Cantonese roast duck and a sautéed Japanese mushroom medley.

My Musings:

This wine was a beautiful, luminous ruby red color and possessed fruit aromas of cherry, cranberry and blackberry with orange blossom, subtle earth and baking spice. On the palate, the wine wonderfully balanced fruit, earth and mineral elements, with soft tannins that provided structure and a long, lingering finish. An absolutely stunning and tremendously enjoyable wine. 

Mt. Beautiful Winery is wonkish heaven. It’s founder, David Teece, is [obviously] an oenophile, but he doubles as a professor of Global Business and Economics at the University of California Berkeley’s Haas School of Business and has authored over 30 books. For me, trained in global business law and economics, I have discovered a new vinous exemplar. Hail to the geeks. 

Mt. Beautiful also makes it easy to feel good about yourself while sipping your refreshing inebriating beverage. Committed to sustainable farming methods, holistic vineyard management and alternative bottle closure methods (which bottle closure lore I explored in this post), Mt. Beautiful ensures that its practices assist in safeguarding the picturesque landscape famous to New Zealand. The world needs more wineries like Mt. Beautiful (and regions like New Zealand) that wholeheartedly embrace and emphasize the importance of sustainable viticultural practices.

In Honolulu, procure as many bottles as you are physically able to carry from Tamura’s Fine Wine and Liquors.  

Aotearoa: The Land of the Long White Cloud

While Côte-d'Or remains the gold standard, one of the most exciting New World regions for Pinot Noir, in my experience, lies on the outskirts of the Antarctic, in the Land of the Long White Cloud. 

Bibles and grapevines were traveling companions to New Zealand, brought in the suitcases of Anglican missionaries in the early Nineteenth Century. Where there are missionaries, there is wine. Early local wines were a cheap proletarian drink that possessed few ardent admirers. Inebriation sufficient; craft not necessary. The fledgling industry was later disrupted by the Prohibition movement at the end of World War I, when temperance advocates denounced the inexpensive intoxicant as “vile Australian wine” and “Dally plonk,” pejoratively referring to the winemakers’ Croatian descent. Racism, patriotism, and temperance bundled into a short, succinct phrase. Well played, temperance movement.

Fortunately, the industry survived its early challenges, and has matured to become, in my opinion, one of the preeminent value wine regions in the world. With a re-focused strategy on quality rather than quantity, it is no longer difficult to procure well-crafted, high-quality vino in the Southern Hemisphere.

New Zealand, home to the southernmost vineyards in the world, is breathtaking in its natural beauty. Dense tropical and temperate forests, majestic mountain ranges, imposing volcanoes, and a craggy coastline constantly battered by the Pacific Ocean produce endless picturesque landscapes. It is naturally divided into two regions, the North and South Islands, each unique in culture, climate, and winemaking.

The South Island is a cool, maritime climate that benefits from extended, sunny summer days due to cloud dissipation and the earth’s axial tilt. Obliquity lends a helping hand. The Southern Alps, the tallest mountain range in the Southern Hemisphere, cause a rain shadow effect that shelters the vineyards from the prevailing westerlies generated in the Pacific Ocean. Vineyards find a weathered safe harbor in the east. On the downside, water is scarce and irrigation essential.

Midway along the eastern coast of the South Island is the capital city of Christchurch and the rolling, breezy plains of Canterbury, the home of Mt. Beautiful Winery. Canterbury’s vineyards are planted primarily in shallow, stony alluvial topsoil consisting of sand, limestone, schist and loam, overlaying deep free-draining glacial gravels from Jurassic periods long ago. These soils possess low-to-moderate fertility and absorb heat during the day that is slowly released throughout the chilly nights. Vine roots’ rocky heat regulators. Here the Burgundian varietals of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay thrive, alongside elegant and expressive Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc.

In a country where sheep residents outnumber their human counterparts 10 to 1, there is plenty of open range for farming and viniculture. Kiwis have made the most of it. Their wines are brilliant, expressive and unique. At every opportunity, I would unequivocally recommend exploring these wine regions and varietals. You will not be disappointed! And you can confidently commence exploration at Mt. Beautiful Winery ...

Cheers!

2015 Cascina Luisin Langhe Nebbiolo

Year: 2015

Producer: Cascina Luisin

Region: Langhe, Piedmont, Italy

Grape(s): Nebbiolo

Alcohol: 13.5%

Body: Full

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Raspberry, cherry, rose, floral

Pairings: Anything highlighting truffles, earthiness or funghi - such as risotto, pizza, and pasta dishes, hard aged cheeses such as Parmigiano-Reggiano

Price (approximately): $22.99

 

My Musings:

Ah, Nebbiolo, one of my all-time favorite grape varietals. There is often little question what is in the glass when it comes to Nebbiolo. It’s unique and distinct color is the first indication - brick red-orange, light and luminous in the glass. An absolutely stunning wine. The intense aromatics are the next giveaway, with a young Nebbiolo consistently showcasing fresh cherry, raspberry and rose petals, gradually maturing over time to include notes of dried cherries, leather, tar and truffle. A complex, structured, age-worthy wine.

Thomas Jefferson, America’s first Sommelier-in-Chief, was noted amongst the admirers of Nebbiolo da Barolo during his travels through the region in 1785 (although the wine at this time was much different and notably sweeter).

Despite its noble character and stunning wines, Nebbiolo has a surprisingly limited diaspora. Nebbiolo is notoriously temperamental and demanding (or perhaps simply neurotic). As such, it only truly thrives in its hometown hills of Langhe, Piedmont, in northern Italy. For budding Nebbiolo enthusiasts, it is best to stick close to home.

Nestled between the French Maritime Alps to the west and the Apennines of the Italian Riviera to the south and east, the region of the Langhe has a temperate continental climate with characteristically hot summers, cold winters, and excellent diurnal temperature variation, particularly in the summer months. This combination contributes to a long growing season that is ideal for Nebbiolo - the first grape to bud in the region and the last to ripen.

Due to its late-ripening and fussy tendencies, combined with its high market value, Nebbiolo commands the preeminent hillside sites in the region that consist of calcerous marl soils and optimal sun exposure. Nebbiolo, like its more famous colleague, Pinot Noir, is extraordinary in its ability to express the subtleties of terroir, which creates demand for very specific vineyard locations. With Nebbiolo, as with real estate, it is about location, location, location.  

Nebbiolo particularly shines in the Lange Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) subregions of Barolo and Barbaresco. The best Nebbiolo from these appellations unequivocally rivals the finest wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy and Montalcino. Unfortunately, they carry a similar price tag. Want to enjoy fabulous Nebbiolo without breaking the bank? The Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) of Langhe, with less stringent requirements than Barolo and Barbaresco, is your vinous destination. 

This wine carried all of the classic elements of Nebbiolo at a value price point. Wonderful aromatics of raspberry, cherry and floral elements of rose petals burst from the glass. The palate is structured and complex with firm tannins and wonderful red fruit. Admittedly, the wine is lighter, less tannic and did not rise to the level of complexity found in Barolo and Barbaresco. One cannot, however, always enjoy the best Nebbiolo at the weekday table. At approximately $23, this wine isn’t necessarily cheap, but nonetheless well worth the price tag for a noble grape that drinks fabulously on its own, and pairs easily with a variety of cuisines. 

Speaking of food, Nebbiolo pairs excellently with white truffles, which are local to the region, funghi and other earthy elements. A few of my local favorites are mushroom rice-otto for date night at BYOB friendly The Rice Place and Hamakua Mushroom Mania Pizza from Fendu Boulangerie.

Distributed locally by Flavors of Italy, you can pick up a bottle at Fujioka's Wine Times.

Salud!

 

2015 Dry Creek Heritage Vines Zinfandel

Year: 2015

Producer: Dry Creek Vineyard

Region: Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, California

Grape(s): Zinfandel (79%), Petite Sirah (20%), Carignane (1%)

Alcohol: 14.5%

Body: Medium+

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Blackberry, Raspberry, Strawberry, Cherry, Spice, Pepper, Vanilla

Pairings: Christmas dinner!

Price (approximately): $17

 

My Musings:

Christmas dinner is approaching and you need a bargain wine for the holiday table. Food friendly and fruit-forward with some spice reminiscent of the season, Zinfandel plays the role extraordinarily well.

This wine, from Dry Creek Vineyard in Sonoma County, has a bright bouquet of baked red and dark fruit, including blackberry, strawberry rhubarb and cherry. The palate is greeted with jammy fruit of raspberry, boysenberry and blackberry, balanced splendidly with spice, black pepper, vanilla and licorice. Well balanced with bright acidity, this wine would be an excellent addition to the holiday table.

In Dry Creek Valley AVA, Zinfandel is king. Although the appellation was established relatively recently in 1983, its viticultural origins extend back nearly 150 years. After the California Gold Rush, European immigrants, in search of farmland, were lured to Dry Creek for its rich and fertile soils. Well-drained alluvial gravel and sandy loam soils on the valley floor were also a good match for vineyards, and consequently there were nearly a thousand acres planted and nine wineries by the 1880s. Today, the remnants from this vinous tradition are still visible, with vineyards proudly touting gnarled Zinfandel vines that are over 100 years old. Want to find terrific value, old vine Zinfandel? Look no further than Dry Creek.

Happy holidays!

2015 Michael David Petite Petit

Year: 2015

Producer: Michael David Winery

Region: Lodi, California

Grape(s): Petite Sirah (85%), Petit Verdot (15%)

Alcohol: 14.5%

Body: Full

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Blackberry, black cherry, plum, vanilla, clove, smokiness, spice

Pairings: Red meat over an open flame (steak, lamb, hamburgers)! Braised short ribs, smoked and cured meats, aged and strong cheeses

Price (approximately): $15

 

My Musings:

Winter is here, and you need a wine to match and keep warm during the cold months ahead. A big, bold red wine is just the thing, and this wine delivers. The wine was dense, full-bodied and fruit-forward, with black fruit aromas of flavors of blackberry, black cherry and plum leading the way. There was plenty more than just ripe fruit, however. The oak aging shines through with cedar, vanilla and spices (clove). The tannins were textured and firm, coupled with medium acidity. Pleasant hints of licorice, pepper and smoke linger in a long, dry finish. The wine was definitely fruit-forward, in the typical Michael David fashion, but there was plenty more on the palate to maintain intrigue. At around $15 a bottle, it won’t break the bank, either.

The wine is not terribly difficult to find, available locally at Costco and Tamura’s Fine Wine and Liquors. 

Lodi is a little-known American Viticultural Area (AVA) with a lot of wine history, at least by American standards. Located between the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains to the east, and the wetlands of the San Joaquin-Sacramento River Delta to the west, the region’s climate and terroir demonstrated to its early residents an efficacious agricultural haven. By the 1880s, European immigrants had settled in and planted Zinfandel and other varietals along the banks of the Mokelumne and Cosumnes rivers. Old-vine Zinfandel is well-established as Lodi’s traditional strength. However, grape varietals are plentiful in this region, and the regional winemakers are always in search for the most ideal varietals to match Lodi's terroir and climate.

The rivers running through Lodi are responsible for granitic alluvial soils that are washed down from the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Cool maritime breezes from San Francisco Bay, most often cut off from inland appellations, reach Lodi and cool its vineyards through a gap in the Coast Ranges. These two characteristics set Lodi apart in the region as an AVA with significant potential.

If you find yourself Stuck in Lodi again, drop by Michael David Winery and drink the time away. You won’t be disappointed.

Cheers!

2015 Kirkland Signature Chablis Premier Cru

Year: 2015

Producer: Kirkland Signature

Region: Chablis, France

Grape(s): Chardonnay

Alcohol: 13%

Body: Medium

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Lemon citrus, tart apple, subtle pear, minerals, honeysuckle 

Pairings: Almost any seafood! Good alternative to sake for traditional sushi, nigiri, sashimi.

Price (approximately): $15

 

My Musings:

I Am often critical of the Kirkland label, finding it most frequently to be an average wine that expresses the characteristics of a region for a cheap price. Procure with appropriate expectations. This wine, however, is absolutely delightful and a reminder that, with a little perseverance, you can happen upon an excellent quality Kirkland label at a fraction of the region’s typical price. A tip of the cap to Kirkland Signature for this effort. Well done.

The wine opens with bright fruit and citrus aromas of citrus lemon, tart apple and subtle pear. On the palate the body is medium with excellent structure driven by minerality famous to the region and balancing acidity. As the wine warms some grapefruit citrus notes join the party, along with honeysuckle on the palate. Aged in stainless steel barrels, the fruit expression is clear and brilliant. At the Kirkland bargain price of $15, this wine is definitely priced under its punching power. Often a Premier Cru such as this is retailing for over $30. Extraordinary value found here; buy in bulk.

The nornthernmost region in the famous French appellation of Burgundy, Chablis is famous for its Kimmeridgian limestone soils that produce mineral-driven, steely, structured white wines. Focused exclusively on the Chardonnay varietal, the region is home to 40 Premier Cru vineyards and one Grand Cru (divided into seven Climats), the highest distinction in the appellation. Although the Romans introduced wine to the region, it was local medieval monks and monasteries that refined rudimentary viticultural practices and established wine as an essential component to a rural economy.  Medieval Monks: winemakers and soul savers. 

The Kimmeridgian remnants of Chablis’ ancient beginnings can still be found amongst the soils. The region, now a semi-continental climate, was for a time covered by a shallow sea dotted with islands, shoals and coral reefs. Fossilized bones and shells of long-vanished oysters and other sea life from the basin along with ocean basalt and limestone produce well-drained, mineral-rich terroir that has consistently translated to exceptional mineral flavors, finesse and structure famous to Chablis.

Cheers!

 

 

2015 Kirkland Signature Gigondas

Year: 2015

Producer: Kirkland Signature

Region: Gigondas, Rhône Valley, France

Grape(s): Grenache (85%), Syrah (10%), Mourvèdre (5%)

Alcohol: 14.5%

Body: Medium+/Full

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Dark cherry, raspberry, licorice, spice, black pepper

Pairings: Beef stew, Chinese-style spare ribs, tomato-based pastas

Price (approximately): $14.99

 

My Musings:

A mere 10 miles from the famed Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the village of Gigondas, an appellation d'origine contrôlée in the Rhône River Valley, extends from the plain east of the Ouvèze River up to the Dentelles de Montmirail, a wondrous tableau of jagged limestone hills. Wine production in the appellation can be traced back at least to the Roman era, when Gigondas was utilized as a respite for the Roman Legion. Even in ancient times, Southern France was the prime destination for drinking and frivolity. Party on!

Gigondas enjoys a cooler climate than its more famous neighbor due to higher altitude (in some cases up to 600 meters) and a steady Mistral wind that blows down the valley.  The soils are more calcerous and consist of limestone and clay. This combination works brilliantly for the Grenache varietal, far and away the appellation’s most important grape.  While Grenache commands the best locations, smaller percentages of the vineyards are also devoted to other classic Rhône varietals, such as Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsaut. Consistently growing in quality and prestige, the rustic, powerful and spicy cuvées from this region can rival Châteauneuf-du-Pape at a fraction of the price.  We are in bargain wine territory.

As I have previously mentioned, and will steadfastly preach, Kirkland wines do not customarily bestow significant depth or complexity, nor is that their primary intention. At the price they are offered, that would indeed be a lofty expectation. While the occasional Kirkland label can come with surprising quality, these wines are better understood as providing an affordable entry to many classic wine regions around the world. They are excellent for this purpose, so please explore! Keep in mind, however, that to experience the best of a region, you must journey beyond the Kirkland empire. 

This wine is a great example. 2015 was an excellent vintage for Gigondas, with perfect September conditions that contributed to a long and steady growing season. A young wine, this bottle benefits greatly from decanting for an hour or more. Even with some patience, the wine opens with noticeable bitterness. Get past this initial bitterness, and the palate is greated with a classic Gigondas combination of black cherry, raspberry, plum, licorice, spice and black pepper on the finish. The tannins were pleasantly pronounced and firm, and the wine’s full body coated the palate. Can’t finish the bottle in one sitting? No worries; this wine was actually better the second day. The bitterness softens with time and matures into a raisinated taste on the palate. I realize Kirkland labels are not usually destined for the cellar, but this wine could use a few years to soften. 

Overall, it is certainly not the most elegant or structured Gigondas I have tasted, but it presents the basic regional characteristics and can introduce the appellation to a wine seeker. Already a Gigondas enthusiast? This wine can probably be skipped or cellared for a few years. 

Gigondas produces full-bodied wines with plenty of tannins, so foods must be similarly robust. No wimpy foods here. In Hawaii, this wine would be great with locally-style beef stew or Chinese spare ribs. The added spice and earthiness of the Syrah and Mourvèdre pair well with tomato-based pastas, beef bourguignon, red meat and game dishes, and hard or pungent cheeses.

Cheers!