2015 Michael David Petite Petit

Year: 2015

Producer: Michael David Winery

Region: Lodi, California

Grape(s): Petite Sirah (85%), Petit Verdot (15%)

Alcohol: 14.5%

Body: Full

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Blackberry, black cherry, plum, vanilla, clove, smokiness, spice

Pairings: Red meat over an open flame (steak, lamb, hamburgers)! Braised short ribs, smoked and cured meats, aged and strong cheeses

Price (approximately): $15

 

My Musings:

Winter is here, and you need a wine to match and keep warm during the cold months ahead. A big, bold red wine is just the thing, and this wine delivers. The wine was dense, full-bodied and fruit-forward, with black fruit aromas of flavors of blackberry, black cherry and plum leading the way. There was plenty more than just ripe fruit, however. The oak aging shines through with cedar, vanilla and spices (clove). The tannins were textured and firm, coupled with medium acidity. Pleasant hints of licorice, pepper and smoke linger in a long, dry finish. The wine was definitely fruit-forward, in the typical Michael David fashion, but there was plenty more on the palate to maintain intrigue. At around $15 a bottle, it won’t break the bank, either.

The wine is not terribly difficult to find, available locally at Costco and Tamura’s Fine Wine and Liquors. 

Lodi is a little-known American Viticultural Area (AVA) with a lot of wine history, at least by American standards. Located between the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains to the east, and the wetlands of the San Joaquin-Sacramento River Delta to the west, the region’s climate and terroir demonstrated to its early residents an efficacious agricultural haven. By the 1880s, European immigrants had settled in and planted Zinfandel and other varietals along the banks of the Mokelumne and Cosumnes rivers. Old-vine Zinfandel is well-established as Lodi’s traditional strength. However, grape varietals are plentiful in this region, and the regional winemakers are always in search for the most ideal varietals to match Lodi's terroir and climate.

The rivers running through Lodi are responsible for granitic alluvial soils that are washed down from the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Cool maritime breezes from San Francisco Bay, most often cut off from inland appellations, reach Lodi and cool its vineyards through a gap in the Coast Ranges. These two characteristics set Lodi apart in the region as an AVA with significant potential.

If you find yourself Stuck in Lodi again, drop by Michael David Winery and drink the time away. You won’t be disappointed.

Cheers!

2015 Kirkland Signature Chablis Premier Cru

Year: 2015

Producer: Kirkland Signature

Region: Chablis, France

Grape(s): Chardonnay

Alcohol: 13%

Body: Medium

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Lemon citrus, tart apple, subtle pear, minerals, honeysuckle 

Pairings: Almost any seafood! Good alternative to sake for traditional sushi, nigiri, sashimi.

Price (approximately): $15

 

My Musings:

I Am often critical of the Kirkland label, finding it most frequently to be an average wine that expresses the characteristics of a region for a cheap price. Procure with appropriate expectations. This wine, however, is absolutely delightful and a reminder that, with a little perseverance, you can happen upon an excellent quality Kirkland label at a fraction of the region’s typical price. A tip of the cap to Kirkland Signature for this effort. Well done.

The wine opens with bright fruit and citrus aromas of citrus lemon, tart apple and subtle pear. On the palate the body is medium with excellent structure driven by minerality famous to the region and balancing acidity. As the wine warms some grapefruit citrus notes join the party, along with honeysuckle on the palate. Aged in stainless steel barrels, the fruit expression is clear and brilliant. At the Kirkland bargain price of $15, this wine is definitely priced under its punching power. Often a Premier Cru such as this is retailing for over $30. Extraordinary value found here; buy in bulk.

The nornthernmost region in the famous French appellation of Burgundy, Chablis is famous for its Kimmeridgian limestone soils that produce mineral-driven, steely, structured white wines. Focused exclusively on the Chardonnay varietal, the region is home to 40 Premier Cru vineyards and one Grand Cru (divided into seven Climats), the highest distinction in the appellation. Although the Romans introduced wine to the region, it was local medieval monks and monasteries that refined rudimentary viticultural practices and established wine as an essential component to a rural economy.  Medieval Monks: winemakers and soul savers. 

The Kimmeridgian remnants of Chablis’ ancient beginnings can still be found amongst the soils. The region, now a semi-continental climate, was for a time covered by a shallow sea dotted with islands, shoals and coral reefs. Fossilized bones and shells of long-vanished oysters and other sea life from the basin along with ocean basalt and limestone produce well-drained, mineral-rich terroir that has consistently translated to exceptional mineral flavors, finesse and structure famous to Chablis.

Cheers!

 

 

2015 Kirkland Signature Gigondas

Year: 2015

Producer: Kirkland Signature

Region: Gigondas, Rhône Valley, France

Grape(s): Grenache (85%), Syrah (10%), Mourvèdre (5%)

Alcohol: 14.5%

Body: Medium+/Full

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Dark cherry, raspberry, licorice, spice, black pepper

Pairings: Beef stew, Chinese-style spare ribs, tomato-based pastas

Price (approximately): $14.99

 

My Musings:

A mere 10 miles from the famed Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the village of Gigondas, an appellation d'origine contrôlée in the Rhône River Valley, extends from the plain east of the Ouvèze River up to the Dentelles de Montmirail, a wondrous tableau of jagged limestone hills. Wine production in the appellation can be traced back at least to the Roman era, when Gigondas was utilized as a respite for the Roman Legion. Even in ancient times, Southern France was the prime destination for drinking and frivolity. Party on!

Gigondas enjoys a cooler climate than its more famous neighbor due to higher altitude (in some cases up to 600 meters) and a steady Mistral wind that blows down the valley.  The soils are more calcerous and consist of limestone and clay. This combination works brilliantly for the Grenache varietal, far and away the appellation’s most important grape.  While Grenache commands the best locations, smaller percentages of the vineyards are also devoted to other classic Rhône varietals, such as Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsaut. Consistently growing in quality and prestige, the rustic, powerful and spicy cuvées from this region can rival Châteauneuf-du-Pape at a fraction of the price.  We are in bargain wine territory.

As I have previously mentioned, and will steadfastly preach, Kirkland wines do not customarily bestow significant depth or complexity, nor is that their primary intention. At the price they are offered, that would indeed be a lofty expectation. While the occasional Kirkland label can come with surprising quality, these wines are better understood as providing an affordable entry to many classic wine regions around the world. They are excellent for this purpose, so please explore! Keep in mind, however, that to experience the best of a region, you must journey beyond the Kirkland empire. 

This wine is a great example. 2015 was an excellent vintage for Gigondas, with perfect September conditions that contributed to a long and steady growing season. A young wine, this bottle benefits greatly from decanting for an hour or more. Even with some patience, the wine opens with noticeable bitterness. Get past this initial bitterness, and the palate is greated with a classic Gigondas combination of black cherry, raspberry, plum, licorice, spice and black pepper on the finish. The tannins were pleasantly pronounced and firm, and the wine’s full body coated the palate. Can’t finish the bottle in one sitting? No worries; this wine was actually better the second day. The bitterness softens with time and matures into a raisinated taste on the palate. I realize Kirkland labels are not usually destined for the cellar, but this wine could use a few years to soften. 

Overall, it is certainly not the most elegant or structured Gigondas I have tasted, but it presents the basic regional characteristics and can introduce the appellation to a wine seeker. Already a Gigondas enthusiast? This wine can probably be skipped or cellared for a few years. 

Gigondas produces full-bodied wines with plenty of tannins, so foods must be similarly robust. No wimpy foods here. In Hawaii, this wine would be great with locally-style beef stew or Chinese spare ribs. The added spice and earthiness of the Syrah and Mourvèdre pair well with tomato-based pastas, beef bourguignon, red meat and game dishes, and hard or pungent cheeses.

Cheers!

 

 

2014 Bodegas Juan Gil Monastrell

Year: 2014

Producer: Bodegas Juan Gil

Region: Jumilla, Spain

Grape(s): Monastrell

Alcohol: 15%

Body: Medium+

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Red berry fruit, spice, smokiness

Pairings: Aged hard cheeses, smoked salmon or marlin, grilled steak, veal or portobello mushrooms, foods with umami and spices such as lavender, rosemary and thyme.

Price (approximately): $13

 

My Musings:

Apologies for taking a week off. Hopefully you were able to locate and consume a vinous beverage nonetheless. The schedule has been packed with events from the Hawaii Food and Wine Festival last week and the annual Wine Bloggers Conference this week. Exciting times! Stay tuned for live updates during the conference with wine reviews, interviews with winemakers and a few recommendations!

This week my bargain wine recommendation takes us to Jumilla, Spain, a characteristically hot and arid subregion of Murcia off the Mediterranean coast. Here Monastrell (or Mourvèdre in France) is the shining star, producing full-bodied, complex and powerful wines. Like Cabernet Sauvignon? If so, you will likely love this.

The Juan Gil Monastrell is rich with plum and red berry flavors, spices and earthy elements reminiscent of dried herbs.  A harmonious balance of fruit, oak and spice, with some smokiness and medium round tannins. A really fun wine and good expression of Monastrell. If you haven’t tried this varietal, this is a perfect opportunity at a bargain price. Although my favorite wine regions for this grape are located in southern France, the Spanish region of Jumilla is a great value Monastrell that is certain to please the palate. 

Good news! This wine is relatively easy to find, even in Hawaii. I procured from Costco in Honolulu, but have also seen it at Tamura’s Fine Wine & Liquors and Fujioka’s Wine Times.

Cheers!

2013 Brancaia "Tre" IGT Rosso Toscana Super Tuscan

Year: 2013

Producer: Brancaia Winery

Region: Tuscany, Italy

Grape(s): Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

Alcohol: 13.5%

Body: Medium+

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Dark fruit, cherry, spice, coffee

Pairings: Barbecue, pizza and pasta dishes, aged hard cheeses, mushroom risotto

Price (approximately): $17

 

My Musings:

This week we are bargain hunting in Super Tuscan Territory.

Originally crafted by winemakers who refused to follow the traditional Chianti appellation requirements, Super Tuscan blends have developed cult followings for their delicious, approachable and uniquely-styled wines. Super Tuscans became so popular, in fact, that the Italian wine regulations established a separate distinction primarily for Super Tuscans - Indicazione Geografica Protetta (or "IGT") - that contained less stringent requirements, thereby affording vinters more flexibility in the winemaking process. Cult wine followings often, though unfortunately, share one common characteristic - exorbitant price.  Quality Super Tuscans are no exception, with a price tag typically in the $30 range and higher. Not exactly a bargain wine for the weekday table.

Occasionally, however, an affordable Super Tuscan comes along that carries all of the characteristics that make this style so popular, yet priced to keep a few extra dollars in your pocket. Enter the 2013 Brancaia "Tre" Rosso Toscana.

This wine is a blend of 80 percent Sangiovese, with 10 percent each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. An inviting medium ruby color with a bouquet of black fruit, cherries, coffee and spices. The palate is greeted with a soft, round flavor profile, elegant tannins and balanced acidity. A thoroughly enjoyable wine and excellent introduction to this cultish collection out of Tuscany. For less than $20, pick up a few bottles to enjoy with some pizza, pasta dishes, or even a barbecue in the backyard. It is a very versatile wine that can be enjoyed on many occasions (and with many foods), from a bargain wine for the weekday table, to parties with friends or just enjoying a quiet evening with some bread and a cheese plate. One of my new favorite bargain wines!

In Honolulu, pick up a bottle at Fujioka's Wine Times or NK Wine Shop in the Chinatown District. For Big Island folks, I believe I saw this bottle at Kamuela Liquor Store a while ago. Hope there are a few bottles left!

Cheers!

2016 Anniello Soil Blanco de Pinot Noir

Year: 2016

Producer: Aniello

Region: Río Negro, Patagonia, Argentina

Grape(s): Pinot Noir

Alcohol: 13%

Body: Light

Dry/Sweet: Dry

Tasting Notes: Green Apple, Peach, Minerals, Lemon Citrus

Pairings: Steamed or sauteed fish (e.g., Opakapaka, Halibut, Cod), poke, crab salad, green vegetables, fresh herbs and vinaigrette

Price (approximately): $16

 

My Musings:

Looking for something off the beaten path? This blanco de Pinot Noir is a good candidate. All the way to the south of Argentina lies Patagonia, a cool and dry climate that is heavily influenced by the Antarctic. The wines from this region are characteristically less intense than other Argentina regions, but pleasantly dry and well-structured. This wine fits the profile nicely.

This wine is crisp and almost effervescent on the palate, with strong flavors of apple and lemon citrus (maybe a touch of lime as well).  As the wine warmed, some subtle stone fruit arrived at the party, predominantly peach. Balancing the wine on the palate was structured minerality and bright acidity. Pleasant, round flavors, great acidity and a long finish. This is a good chance to get out of the box and try something a little different. It is (sadly) not easy, at least locally in Honolulu, to procure wines from Patagonia, and blanco de Pinot Noir is not a style you come across with regularity.

Sold at Fujioka's Wine Times in Honolulu.

As a fun musing to discuss over a glass, Patagonia's name, colloquially meaning "Land of the Bigfeet" (though the etymology is not entirely clear), was derived from Ferdinand Magellan, who found the natives to be giants in comparison to the small European explorers.

Cheers!